“She’s not going to write about the war, is she?” someone asked my guide, Ivance. In truth, I knew little about Bosnia and Herzegovina (often abbreviated to BiH) before I arrived. But when we launched Wanderlust in 1993, the news was dominated by images of Sarajevo under siege from the Serb army. In November that year, as the first magazine was printed, the iconic Stari Most bridge in Mostar was destroyed by Bosnian Croat forces, sending shockwaves around Europe. Thirty years later, I felt I was long overdue a visit to somewhere that had been so much a part of our…