On the high slopes of Planina pod Golico village, in northwest Slovenia, I’d come to discuss mountains with a farmer. Vera Grguric had talked me through the rhythms of life beneath Golica mountain; how in June she would herd 20 or so cows up to high pasture from Pr’Betel farmhouse just as four previous generations of Grgurics had; how the family felled surrounding encroaching spruce and larch forest every few years.
After a couple of days’ walking among the Julian Alps, Vera’s place had felt like a hug. My apartment had white curtains trimmed with red gingham and a wooden balcony…